Sunday, July 15, 2012

Short hair set

Whenever I'm in need of a change, my hair is under attack. While I didn't go for the drastic Louise Brooks bob this time (maybe in a few months), I did get my hair cut much shorter.

I know last time I got my hair cut a few of you were keen to see what it look like without any styling, so here you are!
Note: This time, I did not get my hair cut in a "middy" exactly. Instead I asked for a short cut, with a "U" back and framing around the face. As usual, I specified no razoring the ends and told them how I prefer to style my hair. On my left side I had it cut slightly shorter, into a longish "fringe" which I like to curl.
From this... to this!

And here's how!
As my hair is very resistant to curls I find a cold (wet) set is the only way to get lasting vintage styles.
By gum, By golly's late 30's/early 40's sponge roller set is the best tutorial I've seen that demonstrates how to roll and set your hair using rollers. Though I didn't use her exact set I follow many of the same steps, such as waiting till my hair is damp (not wet), using a setting product and rolling my hair in a similar direction.
There are many differences between By gum, By golly's set and mine but some of the most significant are:
  1. I do not push the rollers down as she does in her last step. This is because for my hair style I want lots of body and don't want the flat crown she is aiming to achieve in hers.
  2. I do not use her trick for preventing dents with sponge rollers, instead I use velcro rollers for the topmost layer of curls.
  3. I attempt to roll my curls on base, not off base. (notice I said attempt. I don't always suceed!)

Another hair set that's similar to mine is Snoodlebug's pageboy hair set.

Size of rollers
I used larger rollers at the crown of my head for two reasons.
Firstly, I don't have enough smaller ones and secondly I was going for a smooth set, where the larger curls end up almost "cupping" the smaller ones. The aim was to have all my hair ending in a similar place to form a smooth roll.

In the extremely messy diagram above I've tried to breifly illustrate the basic setting pattern I used.
I try to roll most of the rollers on base, especially the ones in section 2 and the tops of section 1 & 3. I do this to ensure I get as much body as possible at my roots.
Section 1 and 3 cascade down the head. When brushing out, I start with the sides and back to get a nice round "roll" or "curve". The back of my hair mimics the sides.
Section 2 goes straight back along my part. This includes my shorter hair/fringe section.  As you can see in the photo below, the hair in section 2 stands up more than the other sections. When brushing out, I often leave the hair from the first 2 or 3 rollers in this section till the end.

Once my hair is in the rollers I leave it until it is dry. For this set I rolled my hair in the morning and let it set for 5-6 hours before getting ready that night. Note: it must, must be dry! Otherwise all your hard work will be wasted.

Here's my hair straight out of the curlers. I've had to lighten this photo considerably to show the details, so don't be too alarmed by my pale face!

Below is my hair after I've brushed it out and set it with some hairspray. It's not perfect, but for a first attempt (after my hair cut and with this new shorter length) I think I did alright! I did film the brushing out of my hair, but it's very poor quality and extremely boring. However, if enough of you would like to see it I will try to fix it up and post it for reference. I hope in the future I can borrow a video camera and film a good quality tutorial.

The mirror photos were taken once I'd got home, as you can see some of my set has dropped and fallen out. More hair-spray next time!

Questions and comments encouraged!


Emily & Gracie said...

Even after the set dropped a bit it looks amazing! The face-framing inwards curls look great.. this is something I look forward to attempting once I cut my hair shorter!

Sarah said...

Thank you Emily! You could certainly use this set on longer hair, as I have a while ago. It will give a different result,but I've found it's still quite nice! x

Miss Tallulah Porkchop said...

You are so awesome at hair.

Katie said...

If that's not a particularly perfect set then I don't know what is! You look stunning, thanks for the tips, now I just need to get my hair chopped again, it's getting too long for this kind of thing!

Haute Rockabilly Fashionista said...

I am sure you have heard it a hundred times but when you have your hair done and your makeup on you look so much like Dita Von Teese. Just lovely.

Jessica Cangiano said...

You are not alone for one second, dear gal, my hair won't even come close to holding a decent curl (heck, even a lousy curl!) if I don't wet set either - even then it can be a little hit and miss sometimes.

I think your new length and the style you shared with us here are both thoroughly beautiful.

♥ Jessica

Living Vintage said...

Lovely thanks for the setting diagram, You really do a beautiful job!!!

Lisa said...

Your hair looks lovely! I'm sure you hear this all the time, but it's very Elizabeth Taylor (who I adore). I have long hair to the middle of my back and I'm telling you, seeing your lovely hair makes me want to chop it all off!

...sort of! ;)

zilredloh said...

How pretty your hair looks! :) I too learnt how to roll my hair from Tasha and the wet-set is the only way my hair will curl also.

I was just about to ask how you slept in your hard, velcro curlers but I read that you use them during the day. :) They look like they're easier to work with.

elev1109 said...

Loving the shorter locks m'dear. So much talent!
also, as for the post below. so very brave! but you look fantastic in the bullet.
Miss you!

Anonymous said...

I'm sat with my hair set in rollers at the moment, it is quite short, I'm wondering how it will turn out. I love the feeling of my hair set so leaving them in for hours is not a problem, yours looked great hope mine does too.